| Defending New England IPAs by Madison Mayfield Greetings Bob - I bet I'm like many of your readers who love New England IPAs. When they're done right it's heaven in a glass. Having said that you can understand my dismay when one of my brewing idols, none other than Garrett Oliver from Brooklyn Brewing recently had some harsh things to say about the style. He called it a fad, a style destined to fade away. He said it's shelf life is too short to be a commercial success and that it's a beer based on an Instagram culture and social media. Mr. Oliver is not alone. I've read more than a few articles that say many craft brewers must now, for the first time, brew a style they don’t even like. Stories abound of new breweries trying to start with German or Belgian styles only to pivot hard to hazy IPAs after a few tight months or years of operation. Lager and Saison brewers are now churning out canned NEIPAs in order to meet the loud demand of their consumers Well, brewers that's why you're in business. If you want to only brew what you like that's fine but don't expect me to buy what I don't want either. Here's what I like about NEIPAs- the juicy, citrusy, and tropical flavors; the aromas of orange, grapefruit, mango, pineapple, or other fruits. Many breweries also use dry-hopping methods to impart even more of these flavors. Plus the style usually features two of my favorite hops, Citra and Galaxy. Yes the shelf life is short but so what? Regular IPAs are not typically brewed to last a long time either. Most experts recommend drinking IPAs as quickly as possible or at least within a month from being canned. Some brewers complain it's simply too cloudy and that beer should be bright. Well, you’ve heard the saying, “Don’t judge a book by its cover.” The New England IPA is no exception. Some fans assume it’ s the result of the heavy-handed late and dry hopping that the beer demands. Others point to the more characterful yeast that fail to settle out of solution — a term known as flocculation — which other yeast styles are known for. From what I've been able to research it’s probably a combination of both since hop components can absorb into yeast. And to tell the truth the fact that in the style hop flavor, hop aroma – both reminiscent of fruit juice – and mouthfeel all take precedent over appearance is part of its appeal to me. I believe NEIPA has merit as a distinct style, even though it pulls attributes from both English and American IPAs. The characterful yeast reflects the English-style while borrowing its unbridled hop experience from the American take. At one point, IPA was strange. At one time, the innovative American IPA was frowned on. But beer lovers sure celebrate it now. And that's what's going to happen with NEIPAs. In some ways it already has. To put the popularity of NE IPAs into context, consider that of the top-25 IPAs and DIPAs found on Beer Advocate, 18 of them (72 percent) are some variation of NE IPA. That's what I call acceptance and celebration of something new that’s much more than just a fad. Frankly, I just don't get the critics. I mean, after all, what’s more American than the evolving America’s favorite beer style? NEIPAs are simply the next step in the evolutionary revolution of craft.. So with all due respect to Mr. Oliver and the other experts who trash NEIPAs let me say I am an independent drinker. I respect your opinion but and dismayed you do not respect my choice of beer. I will continue to buy it when it's well made and continue to enjoy it. And I'm willing to bet that the overwhelming majority of brewers against NEIPAs do not have one in their line. Wonder if their opinion will change when they start to brew one? Oh, Sam Adams is coming out with a NEIPA in cans shortly. Is Brooklyn next? Thanks for reading my rant Bob. Hope I didn't get too carried away. ---------- Many thanks Madison. for such a forceful defense of your favorite beer style. It made for exciting reading. I agree with much of what you said and hope your article will provoke some thinking by some critics. Geat job - please write again. I'd like to invite everyone to send me their own columns about anything related to beer in any way just as Madison did. I select the best and publish them here. So join in and get writing! Cheers! Bob |
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